Gold embroidery (zarduzi) is an ancient craft known in Uzbekistan since the early Middle Ages. As early as the 6th–8th centuries, murals in the palaces of Balalyk-tepa, Varakhsha, and Afrosiab depicted people wearing garments decorated with golden patterns. In the early 15th century, the Spanish envoy Ruy González de Clavijo mentioned the golden attire of Amir Temur’s wife — Saray-Mulk-Khanum (Bibi-Khanum).The craft reached its peak in 19th-century Bukhara, where artisans at the court of Emir Said Alimkhan embroidered robes, dresses, turbans, and shoes for the ruler and his court. It was at this time that the famous zarchapans — ceremonial robes of exquisite beauty — appeared.Today, the tradition of gold embroidery continues to flourish. In the Eternal City, you can visit the workshop of Bakhtiyor Baratov, a fourth-generation master of zarduzi. His great-grandmother, Orifa Oripova, dedicated her life to this craft and passed it down to her children and grandchildren. Bakhtiyor himself has been practicing for over 20 years, and his mastery has earned him prestigious awards: in 2021 he was named the winner of the national contest “Best Craftsman of the Year,” and in 2022 he took second place at the International Gold Embroidery Festival.In his workshop, visitors can admire his unique works, including an exact replica of Emir Said Alimkhan’s robe, the original of which is kept at the Samarkand Museum of History and Culture. Today, Bakhtiyor is teaching his sons, ensuring that the family tradition of gold embroidery lives on.
